gbh

I'm beginning to feel like public enemy number one here in South America.

Today I was assaulted by 3 guys. One of then had a crowbar, and wasn't afraid to use it. I am ok but I have stitches in my head and of course they took everything I had (camera, phone, money and so on). It was broad daylight. 1pm.

I am at least partly responsible. I got lost trying to find my way back to San Telmo from touring Boca Juniors stadium in the La Boca district. I thought I was going the right way, I now know I wasn't. Instead I headed into an area alone that the police later told me that it is dangerous even for them to go. One of them I saw coming, but the other two I didn't. The first blow shook me but strangely didn't hurt. We struggled over my bag, but I was outnumbered and outmanouveured. Another two blows to the head and I'd had enough. I let go and ceded my wallet when they demanded it. They left, throwing things out of the bag they didn't want.

I was incensed at the people in the street, on the balconies, in the windows. They stood by and watched. I shouted at them, arms wide. What kind of people were they, to stand and watch, I asked them. No-one said or did anything. Once the adrenaline subsided, I put my hand to my head and found quite a lot of blood. A lady standing nearby motioned that I should come with her to treat the wound. She let me wash the blood from my head. And she called me an ambulance. I didn't think I needed one but she told me the wound was large enough to need stitches. I reconsidered: I didn't fancy walking back out there, and by now I had realised that my white shirt was splattered with blood.

I spent 4 hours this afternoon in Hospital and Police Station. Mostly waiting around in the police station. I had had no lunch, and I just wanted to get out of there and have a shower. But I had plenty of time to reflect. I need to change my ways; I am not invincible. Travelling alone it can sometimes tempting to do things by yourself, if other people don't want to do the things you want to. And sometimes you do things by yourself because you want a break from other people - time spent alone. But I have to judge this better.

In the end, I am ok. And it's hard to care about losing a few expensive things, under the circumstances. I still have everything I absolutely need (passport and so on).

But I lost something else today that I will never get back. Destroyed is the idea that it 'won't happen to me', that I would know what to do, that anyway I am a tall guy and they'll choose an easier target.

My feeling of invincibility has gone forever